After a twelve-hour flight, we landed in Auckland around 6am and after breakfast we picked up our campervan ‘Hades’ (we’re hoping it will keep us warm in the NZ winter!) and set off up the west coast towards Waipoua Forest. The first beach we came to (Phia) had dark sands and was covered in tiny curved shells; we also saw some Man’O’War washed up on shore with its’ dangerous long tentacles. We camped in Waipoua camp ground and after filling up on eggs, bacon, mushrooms and tomatoes we drove into the forest to see the ancient, treasured Kauri trees.

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Our first stop took us though damp, board walkways and bright red leaves where we came to view ‘Te Matua Naghere’ (Father of the Forest) which is the second largest living Kauri tree. Standing at 10.21m tall, with a girth of 16.41m: the width of this great tree was very impressive. Unfortunately, many of the Kauri trees in the area have been affected by Kauri Dieback disease and the path to see ‘Four Sisters’ (a group of Kauri trees standing tall and close together) was closed off to protect them. To ensure soil is not disturbed around these magnificent trees, some of which are estimated to be over 2000 years old, pathways have been made to protect the trees which have delicate root systems close to the surface. We also had to clean our walking boots before and after entering the forest to prevent the spread of disease.

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Our next stop, in the pouring rain, was to see the greatest giant of the forest ‘Tane Mahua’ (God of the Forest), not quite as chunky in the trunk as the 2nd biggest but its’ height is over 7m taller! (17.68m tall and 13.77m). It is incredible to think how long these trees have stood tall for, we later learned that there were many more Kauri trees but Maori used them to make colossal war canoes.

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We continued up the craggy coast driving the two-coast road to Cape Reinga, the northerly tip of New Zealand and a place the Maori believed connected the departed with their homeland back in the pacific. At this meeting point of the South Pacific and the Tasman sea the whirlpools created add to the beautiful landscape and for the Maori represent the coming together of man and woman and the creation of life. On the far outcrop of rock beyond the lighthouse an ancient Kahika tree hangs on to the edge named Te Aroha connecting souls to the underworld.